Tuesday, 17 November 2015

let us eat cake

Monday 26 October - Vienna
Another sunny Autumn day and, after our hearty bowls of porridge in the apartment (which was by the way SO stunning we could have lived there forever - see pics here) we strode out under blue skies - some of us without our coats!

The first place we come to is Stadt Park,which is so lovely
always busy with locals dashing hither and thither
and it's incredible gilt statue of Johann Strauss
so at this point it can only be another waltz to dance us around Vienna on this fine day
and of course a sneaky melange too

Lovely flower stalls at the edge of all the parks
and more of the fab diversity traffic lights, photographed risking life and limb just before they changed to red!
 Our first stop was Otto Wagner's masterpiece - the Post Office Bank Postsparkasse
such a work of art
but despite approaching it from every one of it's wonderful angles, it was indisputably closed for the day!  
A frantic google search revealed that it was Austria National Day and a national bank holiday!!  But don't despair!  The famous five achieve their quest to see inside Postsparkasse in another episode tomorrow  . .
So it was a case of finding out what was open and we decided to explore the central Ringstrasse area.  First stop was the cathedral and the amazing tour to the rooftops. Loved the tiles
and the city view across to the giant ferris wheel at Prater
Next we visited another church - Peterskirke where I just loved the sleigh ride style pews - just looks like everyone's off on a big dipper ride at the Prater!  Hold tight!
We kept passing this horse but never got to see who it was by!
But soon enough it was time to eat (again)!  And this time at Demel's  - THE cake house in Vienna
and this was pure heaven - several floors of refined eating and cakes cakes cakes - starting with the fabled sacher torte - and Demel has serious history with this speciality, claiming it as their own - read here and also discover the battle still rages today.
And here's a selection to start tempting you . . .
fabulous decor
and a bit of menu surfing
This was my favourite - the amazing Kaiserschmarrn mit zwetschkenröster - served warm (taking 20 minutes to make) - bits of broken up pancake with plum compote - really the loveliest pudding EVER.  Anyone out there got an authentic recipe PLEASE pop it into the comments box
(as you can see I didn't even have the time to focus the camera - so busy scoffing)!!
and back down in the shop, some of the cakes on sale
Full to busting, we needed to walk that lot off so we enjoyed the grand buildings and bustling streets - and our first stop was another Adolf Loos building - the famous Looshaus - now a bank.  BUT - sadly closed as it was a public holiday!  So this will also have to be a return tomorrow morning . . .
statues larger than life abounded
and we managed a glimpse of the pristine stables of the Spanish Riding School of Vienna with a peep at one of the magnificent Lipizzaner horses peeking out over his stall.  You can see a video about them here
next a dash round the Royal Opera House
and a nod to Mozart
before our visit to the brilliant Leopold Museum which has a huge collection of Gustav Klimt and other artists of the Secession.  There were some beautifully crafted posters.
imagine - a real original postcard from Klimt!
The highlight for me though was the Egon Schiele
By now it was dark and we walked past the magnificent Rathaus
for a quick top up of coffee at the grand Landtmann cafe
and phoned ahead to book our evening meal - but en route to that, we had some fun lurking in doorways - wonder if you can guess why this particular doorway
YES - The Third Man was filmed on this very street!  The Third Woman had to do for now though . . .
exciting stuff!
Great article here on the unveiling of Rachel Whiteread's Holocaust Memorial in Vienna in 2010 in Judanplatz.  I remember this vividly in the press and was so glad to see it at last. Very moving.
and our restaurant for the night, Brezl Gwölb, was very close by.
and what an amazing little place. Intimate, friendly, great beer and warm homemade pretzels to start - SO good.
and here we all are - once again eaten too much but who cares!!
So it was back to our apartment at the end of our last night in Vienna (boo hoo).

Our Tuesday morning in Vienna and our trip to Saltzburg are coming up soon (with MORE CAKES) just click here

But if you missed the start of this holiday, then feel free to go to the beginning by clicking here

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