cafe culture

Vienna - Sunday 25 October

After doing my Leonard Cohen book review this weekend I am totally taken with his tribute to Lorca: Take This Waltz Play it below and feel transported to Vienna and that haunting rhythm of the Viennese Waltz . . .

And so back to our wonderful whirlwind break in Vienna - our Sunday started with a baronial style breakfast in our fab apartment

followed by our first siting of an Otto Wagner work - the nearby Stadtbahn station

so we got to grips with our u-bahn, s-bahn and bus route

and were soon out in the leafy autumn suburb of Liebsing to see the amazing Wotruba Kirche

magnificent and totally unique and the light played around the inside spaces

and I have to include this one because a 2 minute walk behind the church and this countryside opened up - we were right on the edge of the city - incredible!

a last walk around the Wotruba's magnficent creation - reminding me of our gritstone edges at Stannage and Higger Tor

the view down to Vienna from the church was also amazing

Next we headed back down to the bus stop but missed the bus between stops (and they were every half hour!) but surprise surprise, the driver had spotted us and was waiting at the next stop!!  
Back in the city and we passed the famous Secession Building

and had the best of lunches in the wonderful Cafe Sperl - a real gem find after our disappointment that the Naschmarkt wasn't open on Sundays.  Ancient with high wood panelled walls and regulars filling up the reserved spots bit by bit as the afternoon wore on. We loved the local flour dumplings - a bit like spätzle - with egg and ham - totally delicious.  As was the pumpkin soup and the mushroom omlette.  Great coffee - we discover that melange is the one to order - being closest to the flat white that we all love.  Great breakdown of Viennese coffees here

We even had piano accompaniment which included a blast of The Third Man theme tune (more on this tomorrow) - to much amusement from us

Then we wandered into the streets

and soon spotted Otto Wagner at work again - his magnifcent Art Nouveau style Majolikahaus

Loved the whole diversity crossing signals thing in Vienna - there's a whole series of them but it was a bit dicey stopping in the middle of the road trying to capture them while they stayed on green!!

By now dusk was setting in, as we'd had the clocks go back last night and lost an hour of daylight!  So we headed out to Vienna University of Economics and Business

for a romp through their programme of new architecture

spotting the Zaha Hadid Library and Learning Centre

and the Peter Cook building

and then on to the old fairground that is the Prater

and we were suddenly in that magical world of barrel organs and glitz - just brilliant

although nothing could have prepared us for the LIVE horses merry-go-round!!!!!

and it wouldn't have been a trip to Vienna if we hadn't been on the big wheel of Third Man fame - constructed in 1897 and still going (slowly) round

Vienna twinkling below

a sprinkling of magic

And even now the day was not done!  It was onward and upward and cocktail hour beckoned

By some fluke of magic, we managed to bag one of the only two booths in the world famous American Bar by Adolf Loos where we managed to idle away a happy two hours soaking up the atmosphere (and the cocktails!)

Such an incredible place - steeped in architectural history and so much a part of Vienna

But finally it was once more onto those night streets

(and here comes an admission from the blogmaster - I can't remember who designed this amazing doorway ....  answers in the comments box please . . .)

and to our dinner date at Cafe Beisl for amazing traditional Viennese fayre

followed by a real gem of a nightcap next door at a real bohemian late night cafe bar  Cafe Hawelka a Viennese institution - buzzing with life and chatter and the best ever cakes

and we like to think we relaxed and blended in with the locals

And it was finally a walk home to our own little street

and sleep

To read all about Monday in Vienna just click here!!

Or if you'd rather start at the beginning of our wonderful seven city holiday by train then click here

all the fun of the fair

Tuesday 8 September 2015

San Sebastian

This was the most amazing day - all the ingredients of a perfect holiday - and it started with the sun streaming into our lovely apartment

and this rooftop view

 and a walk around the town to the tourist office to collect maps. 

Loved the market produce

 Such a great morning buzz everywhere

 and some fabulous doorways

Plaza de la Constitución by day - beautifully preserved

an exploration of the magnificent Iglesia San Vicente

a saunter along Calle del 31 de Agosto - commemorating the dreadful destruction of San Sebastian in 1813

and a view down to the cathedral with it's filigree steeple

Inside the grand Iglesia de Santa Maria

Inside which was a massive cardboard model of the tower!  Sadly there was work going on in the church and we weren't able to see the Chillida cross.  But we did see many amazing sculptures across the city over the days we were there and I've found a great website with them all on: San Sebastian Sculptures.  Turns out in 2016 San Sebastian is European City of Culture, so many monuments and buildings are being spruced up, including, sadly, the Chillida studio and museum which is closed at the moment.

So off we wandered down to the bay, stopping for cafe con leche along the way and taking in the incredible setting of this city - strung out between the Pyrenees and the sea

We walked the whole length of La Concha beach

til we found Eduardo Chillada's Piena Del Viento

and the ancient funicular!!

It was SO amazing and is 103 years old we were reliably informed.

and the view from the top of Monte Igledo gives a new meaning to breathtaking  . . .

But enough of views - by now we'd discovered the scenic railway - and now we know why they are called that!!  Scenic it certainly was - as well as rickety, scream inducing and totally magical.

with the friendliest ticket seller/ train driver, who told us the carriages were made in Britain over 90 years ago!!

all ready to ride - no hint of the dips and screams to come

we were swept over the edge of the very Bay of Biscay!

but compensation was at hand - winning first prize in the dinosaur race

It wasn't all over yet though - off to the house of horror

far too scary to photograph . . .

Tempted by a final ride - we all took to the mysterious river!!

scenic or what!!

then back down 

shoes off

and a paddle home

Bit of housekeeping after a swim

Then great tapas again in the town and reminiscences of a perfect day.

Want to follow us tomorrow?  Then click to Wednesday

Or if you'd rather start at the beginning of the holiday, then click here