Friday 11 September
Hondarrubia, Espana
Well there we were, resigned to the leaving of San Sebastian and a long 8 1/2 hour return drive to Penestin with the sun scorching down. But . . . we found this gem of a town, Hondarrubia, just before leaving France and stopped for lunch - right at the tail end of their annual festival!
Great Alpine type houses and cafes (well Pyrenean type really I suppose - ha ha) - and so strange, but so beautiful, right next to the sea. You can even spot an open air escalator right in the middle of the town!!! Amazing!!
There were loads of flags out for the Festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe.
I found this out about the festival:
The main festivity of Hondarribia takes place between the 7th and the 11th of September in honour to the patron saint, the Virgin of Guadalupe.The biggest celebration within the festivity is called the "Alarde" which occurs on September 8th. The Alarde is a military procession held to celebrate the vows made to the Virgin of Guadalupe in 1639 in gratitude for breaking the siege imposed on the town by French troops.However, the Alarde is just one of many activities taking place during those five days in Hondarribia, since there are also concerts, Basque dance, Basque sport exhibitions, activities for children and much more.
We discovered there was going to be dancing in one of the squares that evening for the final night of the fiesta and it was a hard to draw ourselves away . . .
and all this so close to France - that's Biarritz just across the estuary!
MUST return here some day for a longer stay.
And now you can read about our weekend back in France - just click here.
Or if you'd rather start at the beginning of the holiday, then click here
Thursday 10 September
San Sebastian
Those of you who are getting a little envious of all this sunshine and blue skies will be glad to know that we awakened today to beating rain from our rooftop view! But we spent a happy morning playing 7s (bit of a Hughes family card game - rules on request!) in the cosy apartment and only drifted out in time for lunch - by which time the rain in Spain had lessoned.
We discovered a fabulous typically Spanish lunchtime cafe and had the amazing homemade menu del dia. A tasty haricot bean soup followed by a fabulous veal stew with homemade chips, house wine and the best ever creme caramel to follow up. Super friendly with a lovely waitress making animal sounds to describe the menu to us!! And all for €15 a head!
And what's more, the rain had totally stopped so we embarked on our tour of the romantic area of the city
Full of beautifully crafted exteriors
and a haberdashers to die for (I am in my little heaven in sewing or a stationary shop)
and make that a bookshop too! Here I got an English translation of a Basque novel that was recommended by the owner The Accordionist's Son by Bernardo Atxaga - I have just started reading it last night.
The cathedral is also in this area
with it's Chillida's 'cross of peace' visible in the porch
some beautiful houses
and stunning doors
wandered across the river
to admire the station canopy which was designed by a pupil of Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame no less!
another rather splendid bridge
a fed up fisherman (ha ha)
and the recently completed Kursaal Congress Centre by Rafael Moneo
So next we did a bit of shopping, packed up for our leaving tomorrow - took our final peeks from our rooftop window
and went out for a stunning final meal - making sure we all enjoyed our last 'cheesecake'
but the holiday hasn't finished - more to come on our journey home and then our weekend in France. Click here to read about the surprising journey home on Friday
Or if you'd rather start at the beginning of the holiday, then click here
Wednesday 9 September 2015
still in San Sebastian
Very hot again this morning, although clouds did set in as the day wore on. However, that didn't spoil another wonderful day in this amazing city. And first we headed off through the winding streets
to the rather wonderful San Telmo museum - which has this great new extension
Thoroughly enjoyed learning about the Italian poet and filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini at the excellent Pasolini Roma exhibition, with comprehensive notes translated into English which really helped us understand his life, works and politics. A very moving exhibition.
Bit more here in the Guardian too recently reviewing a new film covering his life - Pasolini
The museum blends old and new and also contains a fascinating history of the Basque culture and it's people, life and politics
including of course, some giants
Our own Sheffield giants are Catalan - but it was good to see their Basque cousins
Loved the way the two buildings blended so well - old and new
The art galleries ranged from traditional works such as this by Ignacio Zuloaga (1912-15), which so reminded me of the hilltop village we visited last year in Extremadura with the old bullring amongst the cottages - Santibanez el Alto
This was by Jorge Oreiza (1935)
and of course Eduardo Chillida (1976)
After the morning in the museum and a great lunch in their cafe, we walked the walls of the town up Monte Urgull to the statue of Christ overlooking the city
views once again great but it was getting muggy by now and ice cold coca-cola (and a blast of reggae music) at the cafe on top was very welcome
walked back to town via the pretty harbour, changed and out for evening eats!! This time falling for the amazing local cheesecake
Then a demon whist tournament until 2am back in the abode! Well what else are holidays for?!
To read on to Thursday, click here.
Or if you'd rather start at the beginning of the holiday, then click here
Tuesday 8 September 2015
San Sebastian
This was the most amazing day - all the ingredients of a perfect holiday - and it started with the sun streaming into our lovely apartment
and this rooftop view
and a walk around the town to the tourist office to collect maps.
Loved the market produce
Such a great morning buzz everywhere
and some fabulous doorways
Plaza de la Constitución by day - beautifully preserved
an exploration of the magnificent Iglesia San Vicente
a saunter along Calle del 31 de Agosto - commemorating the dreadful destruction of San Sebastian in 1813
and a view down to the cathedral with it's filigree steeple
Inside the grand Iglesia de Santa Maria
Inside which was a massive cardboard model of the tower! Sadly there was work going on in the church and we weren't able to see the Chillida cross. But we did see many amazing sculptures across the city over the days we were there and I've found a great website with them all on: San Sebastian Sculptures. Turns out in 2016 San Sebastian is European City of Culture, so many monuments and buildings are being spruced up, including, sadly, the Chillida studio and museum which is closed at the moment.
So off we wandered down to the bay, stopping for cafe con leche along the way and taking in the incredible setting of this city - strung out between the Pyrenees and the sea
We walked the whole length of La Concha beach
til we found Eduardo Chillada's Piena Del Viento
and the ancient funicular!!
It was SO amazing and is 103 years old we were reliably informed.
and the view from the top of Monte Igledo gives a new meaning to breathtaking . . .
But enough of views - by now we'd discovered the scenic railway - and now we know why they are called that!! Scenic it certainly was - as well as rickety, scream inducing and totally magical.
with the friendliest ticket seller/ train driver, who told us the carriages were made in Britain over 90 years ago!!
all ready to ride - no hint of the dips and screams to come
we were swept over the edge of the very Bay of Biscay!
but compensation was at hand - winning first prize in the dinosaur race
It wasn't all over yet though - off to the house of horror
far too scary to photograph . . .
Tempted by a final ride - we all took to the mysterious river!!
scenic or what!!
then back down
shoes off
and a paddle home
Bit of housekeeping after a swim
Then great tapas again in the town and reminiscences of a perfect day.
Want to follow us tomorrow? Then click to Wednesday
Or if you'd rather start at the beginning of the holiday, then click here
