ghosts of the past

still back in time on Mull . . .

Thursday 2 May

Wet, cold and windy!  Comforting hearty brunch at the cottage then off in cars piled high with waterproofs and big boots for our hike to Shiaba, a deserted village on a southern headland on the Ross of Mull, just SE of Bunessan, more or less deserted since the 1830s clearances.

Wrapped ourselves up, battened down our kag hoods and off onto the cold, wet hillside.  

First a visit to the remains of the medieval church of Kilvickeon isolated in a field with an amazing graveyard on all sides.

 and it's rare remains of a carved sandstone sheela-na-gig, below

What a fabulous stark setting - in sunshine this valley would be even more beautiful and only a short walk down to the bay and the small island of Garbh Eilean.

But it wasn't seaside weather and we were determined to find the lost village, so on we trudged, higher and higher and wetter and wetter . . .

and finally we are at Shiaba and only us there on that whole mountainside

Shiaba was incredibly atmospheric and moving - especially trying to imagine the harsh lives of its past inhabitants.

The location is just stunning.  We could see the cliffs leading down the coast towards the Carsaig Arches -next year's extreme walk (Ha Ha).    And out to sea we could just about see faint outlines of the islands in the mist that we knew were dotted out in the Atlantic Ocean.

Even discovered an Iron Age hill fort in the centre - perfectly located at the tip of the hill, overlooking the ocean.   Be so magical in the sun!! 

So we'd found our lost village - then it was the long wet walk back to the cars, shower and change and we treated ourselves to a meal out tonight - - - - - followed by, you guessed it, more QI and, hilariously, a round or two of What's My Line!

If you'd like to read on to the final day of the hol - then please click here



(and if you've just tuned in and prefer to go to the start of this holiday on Mull then just click here)